The SAB phenomenon appears to have first begun around the time of the earthquake and Tsunami in Japan. I believe it may have caused some sort of manufacturing issue in lens mechanisms being produced in that time frame and used to build cameras throught 2011. It appears a majority of X100's affected by SAB started with serial numbers that begin with 12, 13 or 14. The Fuji serial number works this way. The first number is the last number in the year the camera was manufactured. The second number is the fiscal quarter of the year the camera was made. An x100 that starts with 13 was made in the 3rd quarter of 2011.
Some X100 cameras have reportedly suffered from 'sticky aperture disease' where the aperture blades lock up, leading to overexposure. Fujifilm has acknowledged this issue and will fix it under warranty.
It is very strange. Years ago I bought a x-100 . It was the only fuji camera with aps-c and very soon I have had the problem with aperture blades. X-100 was repaired and I yet have it. But I thougth that the problem had been solved with the new models S, T, F
One of the worst things as a photographer is finding out that your gear does not work in a crucial moment. An example of this is discovering in the middle of a shoot that your lens has sticky or stuck aperture blades.
The most common cause of sticky aperture blades is oil on the blades. This happens when the grease on the focusing helicoid breaks down, either due to age, or due to exposure to high temperatures. The solid and liquid components of the grease separate, and the liquid oil component makes its way to the aperture blades and causes them to stick together.
Some lenses are more prone to this than others. For example, the Minolta 50mm f/1.4 I will clean in this article is known to develop sticky aperture blades. The same goes for Minolta 35-70 f/4, 70-210 f/4 and 50 f/1.7 lenses. I am sure that Canon and Nikon have their own troublemakers as well.
Therefore, any problems with the spring are most likely due to it disconnecting. In the next section I will explain how to tell these two issues, and other possible causes for sticky aperture blades, apart.
For some lenses it is possible to prevent sticky aperture blades, but for other lenses that have a tendency to develop this problem it might only be possible to slow the process down. Regardless, there are many things you can do to keep your lenses in good condition for as long as possible:
Fixing sticky or stuck aperture blades can be easy or difficult, depending on the cause of the problem. Cleaning dirty electrical contacts takes less than a minute, but cleaning the oil from the aperture blades requires a lot more time and patience. Regardless of the method you need to apply to repair the lens, I will explain how.
It is also important to have enough time and patience available. While repairing sticky aperture blades is not difficult, it can be tedious work. Some of the inner components of the lens are fragile and need to be handled with care.
Whether it is worth repairing the lens yourself depends mostly on the value of the lens. If a new (or quality second-hand) replacement lens would cost you a lot more than what a repair service charges to fix the sticky aperture blades, then it might be worth to have a professional repair the lens.
Today the camera is a bit of a secondhand bargain, with excellent examples changing hands at around £300, if you're in the market get one with a serial number that starts 21 or higher to avoid the sticky blade issue that affected some earlier models.
An aperture is an opening that light travels through. In the context of a camera lens, the aperture is an opening built into the lens that can be made larger or smaller by setting the aperture of a lens to different numbers, which are called f-stops (or f-numbers). Each lens has an aperture ring made up of blades that allow it to open and close easily, which gives aperture its distinct symbol. 2b1af7f3a8